Roganjosh...

Kashimiri cuisine has evolved over hundreds of years.  Over the years the cuisine has been influenced by its rulers and migrant workers from Persia, Afghanistan, Central Asia, North India and others. The influence of Mughals is especially evident on the meat dishes and pulao. Spices and condiments play a key role in Kashmiri cuisine. Kashmir being  situated on the ancient 'Silk Route', the spices traders from all over the world passed through this valley and stayed here as visitors and thus use of spices like cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, fennel, star anise, saffron etc are abundant in Kashmiri cuisine. Staple diet in Kashmir is rice along with chicken, meat and fish. Vegetables like lotus root, turnips, spinach are also  a specialty of this region.

Kashmiri cuisine is broadly divided into Pandit style and Muslim style preparations. The Kashmiri Pandit style cooking involves loads of spices, where as the Muslim style cooking includes onion, garlic and shallots in their preparations. In Kashmiri Pandit kitchen one can find use of Hing (asafoetida) instead of onion and garlic.

Today I made Roganjosh, a classic meat dish from Kashmir. This dish has its origin from Persia. In Persian Rogan means oil and Josh means heat or passion. Thus "Roganjosh" is meat cooked in oil at high intense heat. A second explanation of the name Roganjosh is Rogan means red, this may explain the bright red color of the dish. Roganjosh is mostly made with lamb. I used goat meat. Beef can also be used in place of lamb or goat meat.

For last few months I was looking for an authentic Roganjosh, following Kashmiri Pandit cuisine. My search ended at Anshie's blog Spiceroots. I followed her recipe and made a delicious bowl of Roganjosh. Here is the original recipe link, Roganjosh by Spiceroots.

I did make the Kashmiri garam masala at home and used whole dry Kashmiri red chilies to bring the bright red color in the Roganjosh. Here is how I did it.

Things needed to make Roganjosh:

• Goat meat (with bone): 2 lb (1 kg)
• Yogurt: 1/2 cup
• Cloves: 4-5
• Green cardamom: 3-4
• Cinnamon stick: 1
• Kashmiri red chili: 3-4 tbsp
• Dry ginger powder: 1/2 tsp
• Fennel powder: 5 tsp
• Kashmiri garam masala: 1 tsp
• Salt to taste
• Water: 2 cups
• Mustard oil: 1/4 cup

For Kashmiri Garam Masala:

• Shah jeera/ black cumin: 1 tsp
• Bay leaf: 1 small
• Green cardamom: 1/2 tsp
• Black peppercorn: 1 tsp
• Cloves: 1/8 tsp
• Fennel: 1/4 tsp
• Mace: 1/8 tsp
• Cinnamon: 1/2 stick
• Nutmeg: a pinch

Steps of making Roganjosh:

1. For the Kashmiri garam masala dry roast all the ingredients, cool down and ground to powder. Store in an air tight container.

2. For the Kashmiri red chili powder I dry roast the whole Kashmiri red chilies and ground them to powder.

3. Clean and wash the goat meat pieces. Pat dry with kitchen towel. Beat yogurt with little water, keep aside.

4. In a heavy bottom large pan heat mustard oil. When the oil is smoking hot reduce heat to medium and add cardamom, cinnamon and cloves. Cook for 1 min. Add the meat pieces. Cook the meat till it takes brown color.

5. Add the beaten yogurt, keep cooking till the yogurt dries up. Keep stirring.

6. Mix the ground kashmiri red chili powder with 1/4 cup of water. Add the red chili to the meat, mix well to coat all the pieces with the red chili powder.

7. Cook till oil separates, add all other spices, mix well.

8. Add 1.5 cups of hot water and let the water boil. Add salt, mix.

9. Cover the pan and cook till the meat is well done. Make sure there is enough water to cook the meat. Stir in between. Serve hot with rice or roti.

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Gosht Beliram..

Holi, the festival of colors is the time to welcome spring in India. It may be named different in different parts of India, but the enthusiasm, enjoyment and fun is ubiquitous.

As a child I have so many wonderful memories of holi or দোল(dol) as we call it in Bengali. For us, holi was equivalent to a day of being drenched in color. We were allowed to wear one of our old dress, yeah quite contrary to those filmy white dress parade, so there's no need to wash that horribly colored unrecognizable thing at the end of it. And we too used to become unrecognizable, with red on one cheek and green on the other, golden hair and blue-black hands. It was not only goody goody powdered color thing, we used play an extensive 3-4 hrs of water drenched 'get the parents panic attack' type of holi. I had few pics of those time, but funny enough sometimes me too get confused who is who on those all bluish black faced (with only white glittering teeth) group photos.

How can be an Indian festival be complete without foods? The festival of holi has it's own special ones. The most important and a must have is a drink, the thandai. A fragrant milkshake with dry fruits, melon seeds, saffron, rose petals etc and etc. But the most important ingredient in the thandai is freshly ground hemp. And of course it has its own claim when drunk in abundant.

Other than thandai, sweets are very common. We used to begin our day with hot cup of tea and fritters(onion pakora/ alur chop etc). But for lunch goat meat and rice was must in our house. My mother used to make a delicious mutton curry. So to keep up with all those memories I made a meat dish for this year holi.

It is called Gosht Beliram, named after the famous historical chef Beliram of Maharaja Ranjit Singh's kitchen. Thanks to Mr. Atul Sikand and Moushumi for this wonderful recipe. I went for  the richer version, marinating the meat with fried brown onion paste. If you like a lighter version go through my friend Moushumi's blog Rainbow and cloudbusters, I'm sure you will enjoy both the recipe and her engaging write up.

Things needed to make Gosht Beliram:

• Goat meat (large chunks): 1 kg/ 2 lb 
• Yogurt: 500 gm/ 1 lb
• Onion(very thinly sliced): 1 cup
• Garlic(minced): 3-4 tbsp
• Ginger(grated): 2-3 tbsp
• Deghi Mirch powder: 1 tbsp
• Dry red chili powder/Kashmiri red chili powder: 1/2 tbsp
• Cumin powder: 1 tbsp
• Coriander powder: 1/2 tbsp
• Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp (optional)
• Crushed coriander seeds: 1 tsp
• Crushed black peppercorns: 1 tsp
• Bay leaves: 3-4
• Green chilies: 4-5 (optional)
• Garam masala powder: 1 tsp
• Salt to taste
• Sugar to taste
• Mustard oil/Ghee/clarified butter to cook

Steps of making Gosht Beliram:

1. Dry roast coriander seeds and black peppercorn, roughly coarse both the seeds and keep aside.

2. Fry the thinly sliced onion to red brown color, drain out from oil and keep on a paper towel. Let it cool down and make a smooth paste.

3. Clean and wash the mutton pieces, pat dry. In a bowl (preferably a large glass bowl with cover), add yogurt, fried onion paste, garlic, ginger, deghi mirch powder, dry red chili powder or kashmiri red chili powder( whichever you are using), turmeric powder(if using), cumin powder, coriander powder, salt, mix all these ingredients well. Add the meat pieces in this mixture and coat all pieces with the mixture well. Cover and keep in the refrigerator overnight.

4. Take out the marinated meat from the refrigerator 1 hr before cooking. Heat mustard oil in a heavy bottom pan. When the oil is hot add bay leaves and crushed coriander seeds and peppercorns. Add the marinated meat, cook till the meat is done. Keep stirring in between. No water is added in this dish. But if you find the meat is too dry or scorching at the bottom then add little hot water. When the meat is fully cooked add ghee and garam masala powder, mix well. Serve hot with rotis.

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Vindaloo...

Vindaloo...vindalho or vindallo, is an extremely popular dish from Goa, India. The origin of name 'vindaloo' is traced to the Portuguese word 'Vinha de Alhos' and it itself points to the two main ingredients of the dish, Vinho meaning wine and Alhos meaning garlic. The Portuguese traders introduced this dish to the people of Western coast of India. People say, along with this dish the Portuguese also introduced chili pepper to India which they picked up from Mexico. Originally, in vindaloo the meat was marinated or better to say pickled with wine  or wine vinegar and garlic to preserve it for the long voyages these Portuguese traders undertook. Pork was the meat for vindaloo and pork with lots of fat was usually chosen for vindaloo. The marinated meat was then cooked till  it was tender and had a thick gravy. 

Vindaloo is characterized by its pungent flavor and tangy taste and it is hot. Though with time the dish has evolved to the modern day vindaloo. The traditional wine has been replaced and the pork fat has been substituted by ghee or clarified butter. Now-a-days not only pork, but goat meat, lamb, beef , chicken or prawns are also used to make vindaloo. Some also add potatoes as filler in vindaloo. Many get confused with the name and think potatoes are must in vindaloo (as the word aloo is potato in Hindi), but they are not.

I have come across many different recipes of vindaloo and they vary widely. Fortunately, I got a chance to learn it from my friend Vanessa who is from Goa. She shared the vindaloo recipe the way she prepares it at home. Thanks a lot Vanessa.

Things needed to make Vindaloo:

• Meat (goat/lamb/beef/pork): 1 kg/ 2 lb
• Apple cider vinegar: 1/4 cup
• White wine: 1/4 cup
• Coriander seeds: 1 tsp
• Cumin seeds: 1 tsp
• Dry kashmiri red chilies: 10-12
• Green cardamom: 4-5
• Cloves: 7-8
• Cinnamon: 3-4 (1 inch sticks)
• Peppercorn: 1 tsp
• Bay leaves: 3-4
• Ginger: 2 inch
• Garlic: 10-12 cloves
• Onion (very thinly sliced): 1 cup
• Tamarind pulp/paste: 1-2 tsp
• Turmeric powder: 1/2 tsp
• Sugar: 1-2 tbsp
• Salt to taste
• Mustard oil to cook

Steps of making Vindaloo:

1. Clean and wash the meat, pat dry. Soak dry kashmiri red chilies in vinegar. Dry roast cumin, coriander, cardamom, cloves, cinnamon, cool down. Make a paste of ginger, garlic, roasted spices and kashmiri red chilies with vinegar. Marinate the meat pieces with this paste, wine, turmeric powder and salt for at least 24 hrs, in the refrigerator.

2. Take out the marinated meat from the refrigerator one hour before cooking. Heat mustard oil (4-6 tbsp) in a heavy bottom pan. When the oil is hot add whole peppercorns and bay leaves, add 1 tbsp of sugar, add onions, cook till the onions are evenly brown.

3. Add the marinated meat, cook on high heat for 5-6 min, keep stirring. Reduce heat to low, cover the pan and cook till the meat is done. Stir in between, make sure there is enough liquid so that the meat does not burn, if needed add little hot water. Add tamarind paste or pulp and sugar(1 tbsp), mix well. Check seasoning and adjust accordingly. If you want to add potatoes as filler in this dish, peel potatoes  cut them into quarters and fry them separately and add when the meat is almost done. Serve with steamed rice.

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Mutton Noorjahani...

Mutton Noorjahani, I'm sure just like me, many of you are not familiar with this name. I came to know about this dish for the very first time was from my culinary expert friend Jhum, when she made Chicken Noorjahani. Somehow never got a chance to make the dish. But when I saw a mouthwatering photograph of that same dish with mutton(goat meat) on my friend ( a well known photographer) Sayntan's Facebook page, I could not resist myself. I decided to cook this dish. It was so awesomely gorgeous I can't even describe. 

I must thank Sayantan for his tempting photograph that forced me to cook this dish and a huge thanks to his better half Rani for the recipe.

The recipe referred about Randhuni seeds. But unfortunately we do not get Randhuni here in the US. I always substitute that with celery seeds, but that's a mere compromise. So I googled about Noorjahani dishes and found the use of aniseed/ anise seed. Aniseed belongs to fennel family and has a very similar aroma. So if you do not get aniseed, you can substitute that with fennel.

Aniseed/anise seed

Here is the way I did my Mutton Noorjahani..

Things needed to make Mutton Noorhajani:

• Goat meat: 1 kilo/ 2.2 lb
• Onion (thinly sliced): 1 cup
• Garlic paste: 1 tbsp
• Ginger paste: 1 tbsp
• Yogurt: 1 cup
• Bay leaves: 3-4
• Dry red chilies: 5-6
• Green chilies: 3-4 (depends on the amount of heat you can handle)
• Cinnamon (1 inch stick): 2-3
• Green cardamom: 3-4
• Cloves: 5-6
• Black cardamom: 2
• Star anise: 2-3
• Aniseed: 1 tsp
• Salt to taste
• Sugar: 1 tbsp
• Milk: 1/3 cup
• Saffron: few strands
• Oil: 3 tbsp
• Ghee/ clarified butter: 1 tbsp
• Grated papaya or meat tenderizer
• Whole shallots and cherry tomato to garnish (optional)

Steps of making Mutton Noorjahani:

1. Clean and wash the goat meat pieces. Marinate the meat with grated papaya or any other meat tenderizer. Cover and keep aside.

2. Make a paste of green chilies, ginger and garlic, keep aside.

3. Beat the yogurt with sugar and keep aside.

4. Dry roast cinnamon, green cardamom, cloves and aniseed, cool down and ground to powder. Keep aside.

5. Dissolve the saffron strands in warm milk, cover and keep aside.

6. In a heavy bottom pan heat oil. When the oil is hot add bay leaves, star anise, dry red chilies, black cardamom. Cook over medium heat till the spices release a nice aroma.

7. Add the sliced onion and fry to red-brown. Add the goat meat pieces and cook over high heat till the meat pieces take a light brown color.

8. Add the ginger-garlic-green chili paste. Cook over medium heat for 5-6 min. Add salt and mix well. Add beaten yogurt, reduce heat. Cover and cook for 10 min. Stir in between. Add the cinnamon, cardamom, clove, aniseed powder and ghee. Cook for 5-6 min. Add hot water to cover all the meat pieces, cover the pan and cook till the meat is fully done. Stir in between. Check seasoning, adjust accordingly.

9. Add the saffron soaked milk. Mix well. Switch off heat and let it stand for 15 min. Serve hot with rotis or nan bread.

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Mutton chaap

For Bengali's 'mutton' is synonymous to goat meat. Goat meat is meat of the domestic goat. Goat is the most widely-consumed meat in the world. Goat can be prepared in a variety of ways, such as being stewed, curried, baked, grilled, minced, fried.  Other than Mutton curry there are several other delicious preparations, one of them is Mutton chaap (or chaNp). The Bengali cuisine has a significant Mughlai influence. Use of wide range of spices like mace (Javitri), nutmeg (Jaiphal), saffron (Jafran) and marinating meat and slow cooking procedures are mere influence of Mughlai cuisine.